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Personal Styling, Creating your bespoke suit – Part 1

One of the services offered by Phillpotts Dowding is personal styling. With this service the client is able to design bespoke suits personalised to their style.

 

When designing a suit the first questions asked are:

 Is there an specific occasion  for this garment?

What is the climate where you would like to wear this garment?

Are there any specific styles you dislike or prefer?

 

 Is there an specific occasion  for this garment?

The drawings below shown the 3 common types of lapels. Depending if the suit was to be worn for a dressy occasion it would be recommended to opt for the peak lapel or shawl lapel. For tuxedos shawl lapels would be most fitting, however for a less traditional look and depending on the clients style peak lapels could be incorporated.

Notch lapels are least formal out of the 3 styles show, these would fit perfectly on everyday suits, work suits, sports jackets and coats. However that being said peak lapels also look lovely on coats, sports jacket and work suits. These lapels can also be incorporated into waistcoats which can transform a causal looking waistcoat into something suitable for evening wear. Depending on how the jacket is buttoned the lapel shape and jacket fit will alter. This has been further explained in – How to button a single breasted suit.

 

 

What is the climate where you would like to wear this garment?

This factor is important for comfort and practicality of the suit. As it would be ill-suited for a 10z tweed jacket to wear in a warm climate such as Dubai. It would be much preferred too choose a  light weight wool no heavier than 8oz, pure linen or linen wool blend. The benefits of choosing a linen blend or pure wool is that the inevitable creases caused by linen is reduced. Once this has been decided then this allows you to pick from an large array of suitable cloth.

 

Holland & Sherry 8oz

Johnstons of Elgin 19oz

8oz Holland & Sherry Jacketing with 80z trouser separate.

 

Are there any specific styles you dislike or prefer?

Here I would get to understand the clients personal style to implement this into the suit design. This can be achieved by the cloth choices, where one individual could choose more classic fabrics or loud and quirky. Such as the cloth in Ozwald Boateng suits are more bold and edgy than Huntsman who are timeless and classy. The suits components such as the pockets styles can be chosen, if the client has a specific pocket shape in mind this may also be able to be incorporated. Details also can be added such as satin jet pocket trimmings, buttons and linings. The tailored fit can also be determined by the clients, whereas one personality may prefer a taper, slimmer silhouette than another.

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